The ultimate guide to curly and wavy hair types
Jenna
Summary
Knowing your curly hair type can truly transform your routine and enhance your natural curls. This guide uses André Walker's classification to accurately determine your hair texture. We explore the entire range, from delicate 2a waves to extremely dense 4c spirals.
The different types of curly and wavy hair
The classification system distinguishes four main hair families: straight, wavy, curly, and coily. Each category is further divided into three specific sub-types to precisely define your hair type. Understanding these different hair types helps in adopting truly effective daily care.

Wavy hair types 2a, 2b, and 2c
Wavy hair forms pretty S-shaped waves without creating actual spirals. Type 2 starts with very soft and low-volume waves. Correctly identifying your texture among each type of curly hair helps you choose the ideal shampoo.
- Soft waves type 2a: These light S-waves tend to flatten easily after drying.
- Intermediate waves type 2b: Definition is moderate, with some sensitivity to ambient humidity.
- Pronounced waves type 2c: The texture is thicker and requires more hydration to combat frizz.
Wavy hair tends to get greasy at the roots more quickly than curly hair. Natural sebum circulates more easily along the smoother strands. Generally, two or three washes per week are sufficient to avoid unnecessarily weighing down the hair fiber.
Curly, coily: from type 3 to type 4
Curly hair forms true spirals, while coily hair has very tight coils. Unlike straighter textures, these hair types easily retain moisture and offer significant volume. The broad spectrum of type 3 encompasses all these classic and well-defined curls.
Type 3a is mainly characterized by large and rather light curls. Type 3b reveals more defined, compact, and dense springs. Type 3c corresponds to small, tight curls, while type 4 groups dense textures that require deep hydration.
| Curl Type | Curl Shape | Main Characteristics | Dryness Level |
| Type 3a | Large C-shaped spirals | Light, supple, significant volume, less dry | Moderate |
| Type 3b | Tight C-shaped curls | Defined springs, medium diameter, high volume | Moderate to high |
| Type 3c | Very compact spirals | Pencil or straw size, thick, very dry | Very high |
| Type 4a | Well-defined spirals | Compact but distinct, fragile texture, intense volume | Extreme |
| Type 4b | Angular Z-shaped structure | No curl definition, very dense, very fragile | Extreme |
| Type 4c | Very tight spirals | No visible definition, significant shrinkage, extremely fragile | Extreme |
How to read the André Walker classification
This classification combines a number indicating the general category with a letter specifying the density of the curls. The further the letter is in the alphabet, the more naturally compact the curls become. Thus, the range extends from simple waves to the densest coily textures.
Understanding your curly hair type well helps you avoid many common hair mistakes. A product that is too rich can weigh down fine hair, while a product that is too light will not hydrate dry curls enough. This guide is ideal for perfecting your washing routine and improving your drying techniques.
How to know your hair type
To determine your hair type, a simple method exists: wash, observe, and test the hair fiber. It is common for hair to mask its true nature after using chemicals or heat tools. A simple at-home test can thus reveal your natural texture through the use of gentle care products.

The at-home test to identify your wavy hair
Start by washing your hair with a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo to remove accumulated undesirable residues. Gently wring them out without rubbing, then apply aloe vera gel to your still damp lengths. Squeeze the strands towards your scalp to properly define the shape of your curls.
Let air dry or use a diffuser, then carefully observe the result. Soft waves indicate a type 2, while more defined spirals indicate a type 3. If you are wondering how to know your hair type, men, apply exactly the same method.
- Sulfate-free shampoo: use 2 to 3 times a week for a respectful cleanse.
- Light conditioner: applied to the lengths for 3 minutes, it avoids weighing down the hair.
- Defining spray: this product restores bounce to waves without leaving a film.
- Light oil: a small drop on the ends brings shine and suppleness.
Perform this test over several washes, as the hair fiber sometimes needs time to return to its natural state. You will quickly know if your hair is wavy, curly, or coily based on its behavior. Simply observe the regularity of your results over several weeks to conclude.
Men's hair type, a specific identification
The nature of men's hair follows the same classification system as for women. Nevertheless, short haircuts can often mask slight waves indicating a type 2 or type 3. Let them grow slightly if necessary to unambiguously observe your hair type.
Certain clues betray textured hair: increased volume in the shower, persistent frizz, or a puffy appearance when drying. These signs generally indicate that a short cut compresses your curls. Often, a man with thick hair that puffs up hides a type 2c, 3a, or 3b.
Can hair nature change?
Many wonder: "Can hair nature change over time?". Indeed, hormonal, dietary, or environmental factors can profoundly modify your hair fiber. For example, a woman with wavy hair may see more curls appear with age.
Inappropriate care can also temporarily alter your hair, weighing down your curls or causing frizz. It is therefore recommended to regularly re-evaluate your hair profile to adjust your routine according to your needs. This will allow you to maintain the health, suppleness, and definition of your textured hair.
Routine and care adapted to each curl type
Each type of curly hair requires a personalized approach to reveal its full definition and vitality. For wavy hair, light textures are preferred, while coily hair demands deep hydration. Adopting a customized routine, adapted to your classification, is therefore essential for optimal results.
Care for wavy hair types 2a, 2b, 2c
Type 2 hair generally tolerates more frequent washing than other textures. Opt for a gentle shampoo followed by a light conditioner, so as not to weigh down your natural waves. A question often arises: can hair nature change? Indeed, using overly rich products can quickly flatten 2a type curls.
To enhance wavy hair without overloading it, finishing is crucial. Apply a light gel to damp hair, then gently scrunch the strands from ends to roots. The next day, a simple mist of water is enough to revive the natural movement, without soaking the entire hair.
- Gentle sulfate-free shampoo: use 2 to 3 times a week for a respectful cleanse.
- Light conditioner: applied to the lengths for 3 minutes, it avoids weighing down the hair.
- Defining spray: this product restores bounce to waves without leaving a film.
- Light oil: a small drop on the ends provides shine and suppleness.
The roots of wavy hair tend to get greasy quickly, which requires regular maintenance. Between washes, a light absorbent dry shampoo can be used to eliminate excess sebum without damaging the lengths. Limit the use of heat tools and favor air drying, gently.
Hydration and key active ingredients for curly hair
Regular hydration is essential for all curly hair types: it strengthens the hair fiber and improves its elasticity. These hair types often need both water and deep nutrients. To maximize your routine, find all our tips in our article on aloe vera for curly hair.
- Aloe vera: as a weekly mask, it soothes the scalp and tames frizz.
- Shea butter: extremely nourishing, it is perfectly suited for very dry fibers.
- Glycerin: this humectant captures ambient humidity to soften the lengths.
- Phytokeratin: it restructures the fiber, reduces breakage, and maintains bounce.
Apply your masks after shampooing to damp hair, targeting the ends so as not to saturate the roots. Then rinse with cold water to seal in hydration and close the hair cuticles. Also discover our specific routine for damaged curly hair to restore fragile lengths.
Daily protective gestures for curls
Protecting your curls helps reduce breakage and maintain good hydration. Only detangle your curly or frizzy hair when it is damp and saturated with conditioner. Whether your hair is slightly curly or frizzy, it is fragile and can break under excessive tension.
Prefer a silk pillowcase to limit friction and dehydration during the night. Also avoid excessive use of hair dryers and straighteners to preserve the health of your hair fiber. To restore silky ends, consult our guide on dry curly hair.
Avoid overly tight hairstyles that can weaken the fiber and irritate the scalp. Wash your hair once or twice a week maximum to preserve its natural hydrolipidic film. By spacing out washes, you will keep soft and well-defined curls longer.
Frequently asked questions
What are the different types of curly hair according to the classification?
André Walker's classification details each hair type, ranging from type 2 (wavy) to type 4 (coily). To properly identify the different types of curly hair, it is essential to examine the subtypes: the soft waves of type 3a, the more pronounced and tight curls of type 3b, or the very tight small curls of type 3c. Type 4c, meanwhile, forms very small, dense curls, characteristic of coily hair.
How to precisely identify my curly hair type?
To precisely identify your curly hair type, start by gently washing your hair and letting it air dry naturally. The appearance of slight waves generally indicates a type 2, while well-defined and elastic curls rather fall under type 3. To confirm your category in the long term, observe the evolution of your texture over several weeks without intervention (no blow-drying or straightening).
What is the best routine for curly or coily hair?
The best routine for curly and coily hair relies on very gentle care. Prioritize sulfate-free products that respect the hair fiber, and ultra-hydrating masks to deeply nourish. These textures require frequent hydration to maintain their elasticity and prevent breakage. Also avoid excessive use of heated appliances to maintain the natural health and beauty of your curls over time.